Gem News InternationalSummer 2024 - Volume 60, Issue 2, Summer 2024, Vol. 60, No. 2

International Jewelry Tokyo 2024

Kazuko Saruwatari

International Jewelry Tokyo (IJT), held every January at the Tokyo International Exhibition Center, known as Tokyo Big Sight, is Japan’s largest jewelry trade show (figure 1). This year, GIA organized a seminar presented by Dr. Yusuke Katsurada titled “The Tales of Montana Sapphire,” which focused on colored stone origin and traceability. For the first time, on-site presentations were conducted at the GIA booth, with gemologists from GIA’s Tokyo laboratory explaining colored stone treatments to the public.

A variety of items were on display this year. One jewelry maker, Kishun, exhibited AI-designed jewelry (figure 2, left). Spokesperson Hanako Minami noted that this was the company’s first such venture. She observed that the AI-generated designs were quite novel but lacked practicality. The company expects AI to learn to produce practical and innovative jewelry designs in the future. Meanwhile, one traditional jeweler presented natural diamond engagement and wedding rings with elaborate designs in metal (figure 2, right). The designs were inspired by floral and other natural elements that have long been familiar in Japanese culture.

Also on display were gemstones cut with 180 facets, enhancing the brightness of quartz and other materials containing various inclusions (figure 3, left). The facets are based on a dodecahedron structure, with 15 facets on each pentagonal face (figure 3, right). This style is called the “kikyo” cut because of its resemblance to the bellflower (kikyo in Japanese). The cut epitomizes the skill of master craftsman Yukio Shimizu, the sole artisan who executes this intricate 180-facet gemstone cut.

Meanwhile, akoya cultured pearls remain popular. Most notable were the akoya pearls from Vietnam, which possessed excellent luster and white color. Vietnamese akoya pearl jewelry was also featured in versatile designs (figure 4, left). Other highlights were South Sea and Tahitian pearls in sizes larger than 20 mm (figure 4, right).

Next year’s IJT will be held January 15–18, 2025, also at Tokyo Big Sight.

Kazuko Saruwatari is manager of colored stone identification at GIA in Tokyo.